E6011 Welding Rods Question

e6011 welding rods

I'm just starting stick welding, and have recently tried to "graduate" from E6013 to E6011 Welding Rods, as you suggest. Problem is, when I finish a weld using E6011 rods, I always wind up with a fairly large crater at the end of the weld seam, because the E6011 is so "aggressive". How do I avoid this?

Answer to E6011 welding rods Question

I know exactly what you are talking about.

2 welding tips come to mind for getting rid of the crater problem at the end of the weld:

1. Make sure your amperage is not too hot and if you are welding on an AC DC machine, AC works better. DC will allow Arc Blow to start happening midway into burning the rod. E6011 rods are made to run on all polarities but AC seems to be the sweet spot and will definitely prevent arc blow (when a magnetic field sets up and causes the rod to burn unevenly and be extra aggressive).

2. When you stop the bead, keep the rod in the area and light right back up in the crater with a close arc for about a second after the crater has had a few seconds to cool. that should fill the crater without making a new one.

The reason I like E6011 rods better than 6013 rods is that I have seen lots of students have trouble with the 6013 rods trapping slag pockets. 6013 rods make a pretty weld under pristine conditions, but when you have to burn thru a little rust, or weld downhill, they just plain suck. E6011 rods come in 5/32" diameter also and even if all you have is a 200 amp buzz box and E6011 rods, you can weld a lot of stuff.

thanks for submitting your welding question exit E6011 Welding Rods ...see more stick welding tips