I need tips on running 7018 uphill of carbon steel pipe

I am teaching myself how to weld some what i am a pipe fitter apprentice and i just can seem to get my 7018 to look decent especially when i join seams my 6010 root is perfect im told but im having problems with me 7018 looks? any ideas?


set amps just high enough so that when you hold a really tight arc, the rod wont stick.

then....hold a tight arc. hold those corners to avoid undercut.

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Jul 31, 2015
Nice Post NEW
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Jan 29, 2015
7018 up hand NEW
by: john

I always told my welding students what to look for when doing a vertical with 7018. Moving from side to side is the correct method but simply pausing on each side when you get there doesn't work as well as looking 'under' the puddle at the side you have stopped on. For example if you just moved from left to right, then you should look at the bottom right side of the puddle. Once you see the puddle touch the right side of the joint you don't have undercut and can move to the left once again. (doing the same thing once you get to the left side of the joint etc.)

Dec 31, 2013
70 18 NEW
by: Mike S

I bet you lose control of you puddle just around 5-3and 7-9 oclock. Keep a tight arc, and hang on the edges. Like the other guy says; breeze over the middle of the joint. Watch you edges consume and keep an eye on your puddle. With practice I am sure you will develop a nice consistant nickel high and dime wide bead.

Mar 14, 2013
uphill 7018 NEW
by: B Jacobs

Put your rod in the stinger at the 10 to 15 degree up angle,and slow down and I call it driving the weld uphill and use a very slight side to side motion which should flatten the weld and try to mantain the same speed to have uniform bead size. good luck

Apr 07, 2012
Help running 7018 vertical up NEW
by: Dave

Here is how my grand father taught me 30 some years ago. You can use either pipe of plate doesn't matter. Set up your bevel just like normal and run in a good root using your 5P (6010). Now go ahead and run a hot pass in any position you want and you just want to fill up just below flush. If you have used sch 80 pipe or 1/2" plate you have now realized it's not just about flush with the surface so make sure you use like sch 40 6" or 1/4" plate. Now put a "pipe liner" wheel on your grinder it is only about an 1/8" wide wheel and take your time and lightly grind two lines on the outside of your weld, when your done it should look like a set of "railroad tracks" on each side. Now set up in the vertical position. Now do like Jody say's...keep your arc tight and stay within the lines of the railroad tracks jumping from track to track with a pause and do not stay in the middle at ALL just breeze right through it to the other track. After time you will not need to do this you will be able to see and recognize the edges of the weld. When most people start to weld all they see is sparks, smoke and say "what puddle?" After time your eye's and brain will learn to see where you are going and what is happening behind the rod i.e. the "puddle". Think of it like this...hold on track let a circle form then bang over to the next track and another circle and gravity takes care of the middle in vertical up. And remember this.... I have welded in some of the most contorted difficult positions you can imagine, but my grandfather always said 90 percent of a good weld is just getting comfortable and he is right.

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