This weeks video is about 9 random Tig welding tasks....All done over the period of a a couple of months and using a small tig inverter.
Tig welding task #1
The most recent job I did was a 6061 t6 aluminum part made from 3/8" ( 9mm) thick bar stock. The ends of the bar stock were chewed up bad from a saw someone used removing tabs that were mislocated.
My job was to fill in the saw marks, dress it off, and
weld new tabs on the ends where the drawing specified.
Here are the main details.
150 amps, 120 hz, and ac balance to -30 which equates to 80% EN. Using a 3/32" (2.4mm) 2% lanthanated electrode and 3/32" (2.4mm) 4043 filler and that was balled just a little bit from a previous job.
I only needed about half the pedal for the build up but for welding the tabs, I used full pedal for about 3 seconds before backing down a bit once the heat built up.
This was a goofy little job and was done to a drawing that specified welding on only three sides with no bevel but I put a small bevel on one side anyway because no weld was allowed on the other side and just welding a bead on top of 3/8" thick aluminum with no joint prep does not make for a very strong joint.
Tig welding task #2
Aluminum Boat Propeller repair.
This is a pretty common repair for boat props of all kinds but if the damage is extensive, or if on an inboard motor setup, pitch blocks, pitch and rake indicators, and balancing equipment is needed to make the prop perform well.
I have seen many aluminum boat props like this repaired without balancing... as long as the damage is minimal. Even for minor damage, it helps a lot to use some type of template to make sure the contour is very close once finished.
on this job, here are the details
if you are interested on learning more about boat propeller repair , there is a bunch of info at rundquist.com.
Tig welding task #3
This job was also in a video just a few weeks ago. It was a chunk of stainless steel that was accidentally machined wrong. There were several machining steps left to go when this groove was machined by mistake. And as is always the case, there was no extra material on hand to just make a part from scratch and the job needed to be delivered the next day. So setting the machine to DCEN and only around 90 amps I ran several beads until there was enough metal to machine the part to the correct shape and dimension. I used er308L filler metal and a #7 gas lens and 15 cfh argon and a 3/32" (2.4mm) 2% lanthanated electrode. No pulse , just straight dcen.
I got quite a few comments youtube asking why I didnt just mig weld the groove. Answer: I dont have a frequent need to mig weld stainless. So I dont have a spool of stainless wire on hand and also dont have the right gas for mig welding stainless.
Since this video, I got my hands on a Lincoln 350mp so I am working on some videos showing pulse mig in the near future.
Tig Task #4
Razor blades ...or rather utility knife blades. These blades around .025" thick. thats about .6mm. But since I welded a corner joint on the sharp edge, its like welding thinner metal. Welding razor blades requires a really good low amp start. The powertig 210ext has a start adjustment in a hidden menu so you can set it low to light up on really thin stuff like razor blades.
I think I set the amperage to about 25 so I just used the foot pedal to control amps while welding.
One thing you may notice in this clip is that by using aluminum angle to back up the weld, it comes out pretty shiny on the back side. Almost as good as if it were shielded with argon. Copper works even better. Save all the copper pieces you find to use as backing bars for odd jobs. Same with aluminum. I have several pieces of aluminum angle, and bar stock that I use routinely as backing and for heat sinks.
Tig Task #5
1/2" ( 12.7mm) thick 4140 bar stock lap joint. I did this in 2 passes with amps set to 150-160. 3/32" er70s-2 filler rod and 3/32" (2.4mm) 2% lanthanated electrode using a #7 gas lens with argon set to 15 cfh.
This joint was done using some scrap bar stock. If this had been a real live part, a preheat would be needed because 4140 is a hardenable steel.
Tig task #6
A lap joint on a bearing sleeve welded inside a roller. same exact settings and filler rod as task #5.
Tig task #7
welding some stainless round bar stock handles to some carbon steel nuts.
for this job I used pulse settings just for kicks.
39 pps, 33% pulse on time, and 33% background current
er309L filler rod.
Tig task #8
When I am field testing a machine, I usually run several beads back to back on a piece of aluminum.
I call this the aluminum drill because its a good skill building drill.
Its good practice for me, and its also a good way to experiment with different settings on the machine.
One setting this machine has that is unique is an advanced pulse setting. The current actually switches from AC to DCEN as it pulses.
You dont get any cleaning action on the Electrode negative cycle but the shielding gas prevents the puddle from oxidizing and the dcen current keeps the part hot.
Its an interesting feature that is said to help on thin aluminum sheet but I bet someone will find other applications. For me, it seemed to work very on thick aluminum but I set the background current to max so I wouldn't lose heat input.
Tig task #9
a flat 1g butt joint square groove weld.
125 amps 120 hz ac balance set to 70% en
3/32" (2.4mm) 4043 filler and a 3/32" (2.4mm) 2% lanthanated electrode that was tapered.
You might notice different welding technique in this video. I lengthen the arc while I add filler and keep it tight while I step ahead and pause. If you hare having trouble with the electrode touching the puddle while adding filler rod, you might give this technique a try.
Thats 9 random tig welding tasks for you today, hope you enjoyed it... peace out.
Watch more Tig Welding Videos