Aluminum Tig Welding Overhead with a Fingertip Amperage Control

For this video page , we use a fingertip amperage control for aluminum tig welding overhead.

So why are we talking about torch mounted amperage controls in this article on aluminum tig welding overhead?

Because overhead welding…or welding out of position and all over the place is a time when you might think about a torch mounted fingertip amperage control instead of dragging your foot pedal all over the place.

I tried to give a comparison of 2 different styles of remote finger tip controls in this page but as luck would have it, one of them had the wrong pin configuration for my Miller Dynasty 200DX.

So the only torch mounted amperage control I was able to test this day was a Miller brand with a dial wheel….a RCCS-6M Control (6-pin plug) with a north/south rotary wheel.

The options Miller offers on fingertip amperage controls are:

• north south slide action

• east west wheel

• or north south wheel

One Main thing to consider is making sure you get the right pin configuration. You cant just buy any remote fingertip amperage control and expect it to plug and play.

So why not just get a fingertip amperage control and use it for everything?

Because it is not as good as a foot pedal. You have less control. As hard as you try to adjust the amperage dial without moving the tip of the tungsten, it still moves.

If you don't believe it, try welding something really tedious like razor blades or coke cans with a fingertip amperage control

You will see what I mean in about 2 seconds.

TIps for Aluminum Tig Welding Overhead

Aluminum Tig welding overhead is not really much different than welding flat on the table right in front of you. That sounds like a lot of BS but here is what I mean...

If you do the same things that give you a good weld in the flat position, you will also get a good weld even in the overhead position.

Here are the things:

1. Use the right amperage…hot enough to melt a puddle that is roughly 3-4 times the thickness of the sheet metal you are welding. If you are welding something really thick, then go by the electrode size and make the bead 3-4 times the electrode diameter. Being tentative on the amperage will not provide enough arc force to make the puddle flatten out and penetrate. But you need to pay attention to arc length also because amperage is not the only thing.

2. Use a pretty tight arc length. No more than the electrode diameter. This pinpoints the heat and prevents the arc plume from fanning out too wide . holding too long an arc will make your filler rod ball up and blob into the puddle or worse yet, go down your pants.

3. Watch the angle of the dangle. Use only a slight torch angle…too much torch angle does the same thing as too long an arc…if you hold a long arc AND angle the torch back too much, you are screwed , glued, and tattooed before you get going.

4. Use the right size filler rod….too small a rod will melt and ball up before you can get it to the puddle. Too large a rod will block the shielding gas and chill the puddle too much. Rule of thumb here is try to use close to the same size filler rod as your electrode size….not bigger, but not much smaller either.

Ok so that’s it..pay attention to these tips for your aluminum tig welding overhead and then just weld as if it was right in front of you flat on the table.

exit aluminum tig welding overhead and read more about the tig finger heatshield