Who needs a Miller Tig wireless foot pedal amperage control?
I guess you could say that no one really needs it because we have all been getting by with our corded pedals forever.
But I can sure think of some jobs I have done where it would have come in super handy.
From what I have heard, The Miller tig welder wireless remote pedal is going to cost a pretty penny.
But there will be some welders who will be interested in this thing no matter what it costs.
Welding chromoly tubing on small aircraft…having to snake in and out of all those tubes is a real hassle with a corded pedal.
Race car builders….for the same reason…when you are crawling and climbing in and out of a race car chassis, one less cord sounds like a great freaking idea.
And what about welders of marine hardware like tuna towers and handrails?...or large projects on a welding table or fixture where you are constantly swapping sides of the table and even getting up on the table to tack or weld.
Here is how the miller tig welder wireless foot pedal works.
The pedal has a small battery pack that is used to power the sending unit in the pedal. ( takes 3 AA batteries)
The pedal sends a signal to a receiver that plugs in to the canon plug receptacle …same place your corded pedal plugs.
Once the pedal and receiver talk to each other the first time, they are married.
…the signal is unique so other pedals or electronic devices cant interfere.
Have you ever worked in a shop with a bunch of other welders and had them do the ole foot pedal swaperoo with you?
.. I have been on both ends of this joke.
Its amazing how easily you can be fooled with a dummy foot pedal, by someone running your foot pedal and just mimicking your foot movements.
The kicker happens when you give it more gas for more amperage and nothing happens. So you give it more gas... Then all at once you get more than you can handle.
…so you let off the gas but it doesn’t respond…you are still hot as crap. You take your foot completely off the pedal …but you still have an arc and you are still hot as blazes..
You panic and break the arc. And it sounds like hell.
When you lift your helmet, 3 or 4 of your fellow welders are standing there laughing at you.
Ha , ha, very funny.
I am not advocating practical jokes. In fact, I think this one is a really bad idea.
Just telling a story how Boys will be boys…and sometimes grown men will be boys too.
Aluminum is a great conductor...its second to copper on the list of stuff to use as a heat sink for tig welding sheet metal. If you can get copper, thats like gold to a tig welder.
but scrap aluminum is a bit easier to find.
You might think about scrounging some random pieces of aluminum angle, aluminum plate, etc, for use to clamp to sheet metal for backing , to prevent warpage, and for a heat sink.
If you are building a tank, a drip pan, a catch basin for maple syrup, or whatever, aluminum works great as a heat sink you can clamp as backing on the back side of outside corner joint welds...its not as good as argon for shielding the back of the stainless steel weld, but it really helps and it a lot better than welding with nothing at all.
Stainless steel sugars on the back side when there is no shielding at all. Sugaring is another word for excessive oxidation...it leaves pits, traps bacteria and is generally not good.
Leave Miller Tig Wireless foot control...and what the heck is a TigFinger?