Sanitary stainless tube welding is all about the inside and the purge.
Its nice if the outside looks good too but it can be polished after welding.
The reason the inside is so important is that bacteria can get trapped on a rough surface if the root is not purged well.
pictured below is the SPARC dual flowmeter, you can see it on my store here
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WELD PROCESS = TIG, GTAW, GAS TUNGSTEN ARC WELDING,
METAL TYPE = 304L STAINLESS STEEL
THICKNESS = .063"
WELD TYPE = GROOVE WELD NO BEVEL
JOINT TYPE = BUTT
POSITION = 6G
AMPERAGE = 45 AMPS
TUNGSTEN = 2% LANTHANATED, 3/32"
FILLER WIRE = NONE autogenous
POLARITY = DCEN
GAS FLOW = 20 CFH argon
CUP SIZE = 7
ADDITIONAL SETTINGS = 5 CFH ARGON PURGE
PRE FLOW = TORCH VALVE
POST FLOW = TORCH VALVE
TIPS: KEEP A FAIRLY TIGHT ARC AND WATCH TORCH ANGLE
Aim for an arc length that is equal or less than the diameter of your tungsten electrode.
Torch angle can be forgiving provided your arc length is tight.
The simplest and most portable tig welding set up is Scratch start TIG.
All you need is a DC welder, an air cooled tig torch with a valve, cylinder of argon, and flowmeter in order to have a scratch start tig rig.
But scratch start is not always the best option.
There are small inverter tig welders available that have features that allow tapering off amperage while maintaining argon shielding...without the need to snap out of the puddle which can be a great advantage when tig welding stainless steel sanitary tubing.
In the short video on this page, I used a DIY rectifier and old lincoln buzz box just to demonstrate what can be done with a very crude welder.